More Than Just Fishing

Monday, February 10, 2014

January 2014
Welcome to "More than Just Fishing". I have always enjoyed writing and I think I will enjoy writing about something other than leather production and performance variances. Many of you know my passion for fishing and traveling. Recently, while heading out to sea for a day of fishing, I was contemplating the beauty of all that was around me. It was a Sunday morning. The sun was just peaking over the mountains of Puerto Vallarta. Humpback whales were breaching all around our boat. My son Steve was on the bridge with the Captain and I was helping the mate prepare the lines for fishing. A perfect moment in time. I am blessed to say there have been other such perfect moments. Sitting in a big leather easy chair sipping 20 year old Brandy at the distillery with my son Peter in Stellenbosch, South Africa. Touring my son Christopher's business and seeing and hearing his excitement over launching Off the Charts Video Games.

Moments such as these serve as the "Super Glue" that hold together the patchwork of experiences that are my life, and what is a life if it is not shared? This blog is my sharing.

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November Wine of the Month

Poliziano’ Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2011- From the first sip I thought "here is a Tuscan classic". This wine has a Wine Spectator 90 rating. Poliziano is located in Montepulciano, a picturesque town southeast of Siena. The Tuscan aristocracy. Popes and even Voltaire call Montepulciano wine the King of All Wines. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is usually maroon-red in color and is characterized by its dark cherry and rich plum aromas, ripe strawberry and cherry fruit flavors, and firm tannins, and acidity that make it an age-worthy.The Poliziano estate, owned by Federico Carletti, was founded in 1961 and is now 200 hectares. The wines are made only from estate-grown grapes. Poliziano’s 2011 take on Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano has a dark ruby coloring, and elegant aromas of dark red fruit, black pepper and spicy-earthy flavors. This wine goes well with grilled red meat and game, roast chicken and an antipasto of salami, ham and aged cheese. It is suggested that this wine is best enjoyed from 2015 through 2020.

September Wine of the Month

Rupert & Rothschild’s Classique In honor of my friend, Detlef Wedekind. Centuries of wine tasting have led many red wine lovers to the classic blend mastered by the French- the Bordeaux blend. Winemakers in South Africa have put their own spin on this classic formula to create successful blends of their own. Africa is known for its Big 5 when it comes to safaris, but for those who embark on a wine safari in the regions of Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek, the Big 5 grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. In SA, these five red grapes are the components of the classic blend but Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot typically take the lead role, with the other three, and perhaps a substitute variatal here or there, acting as the supporting cast. These grapes in various combinations add color, structure and bodyto the wine. A Bordeaux blend typically uses at least three of the grapes. The beauty of the blend is that each year the percentages can vary allowing the winemaker to tweak the wine to include more of the variety that excelled in that particular year’s harvest. In South Africa, the Bordeaux style blends are a more recent phenomenon, the first being introduced in 1979. In the classic style of the “blend”, The Rupert & Rothschild partnership was formed in 1997 by South African Dr Anton Rupert and the Baron Edmond de Rothschild of France. Their vision and guiding principles have been carried forward by their heirs and today the Rupert family and Baron Benjamin de Rothschild share this prestigious partnership in wine making at the foot of the spectacular Simonsberg mountain in the Franschhoek Valley. The estate, historically known as Fredericksburg, was established in 1690 and is now home to Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons. The venture only produces three wines; Baroness Nadine, a Chardonnay; Baron Edmond, a Cab Sauv and Cab Franc blend, and the Classique, a Bordeaux blend. I have had a number of different vintages of the Classique and enjoyed each thoroughly- both in their uniformity and their unique peculiarities. The 2012, a 60/40 Cab Sauv/Merlot blend, is a very elegant wine with fresh raspberry aromas, plum blossom, ripe fig accents and the potential for ageing at least 6 years. The 2011, also is a 60/40 blend, with raspberry aromas, adds blueberry flavors and provides a dark chocolate aftertaste. The 2010, my favorite, and again 60/40, has the same vibrant berry flavor but with spicier hints of coriander and white pepper. These older vintages are the perfect accompaniment to pork and game meat dishes. The winemaker has tweaked the latest vintage, the 2013, blending Merlot 50%, Cabernet Sauvignon 35%, Cabernet Franc 10%, and Petit Verdot 5%. In addition to the signature raspberry, there are great fall aromas of cranberry with a cinnamon and walnut finish. As with many younger wines, decanting is recommended. In addition to hearty meats, this wine would go well with game birds such as quail and pheasant, and your Thanksgiving turkey. Enjoy!

August Wine of the Month

MASTRO JANNI Brunello di Montalcino (2007) Chef Peter selected the wines for the family vacation from his personal cellar. At our last dinner, he poured Mastro Janni Brunello di Montalcino 2007 from the Azienda Agricola Mastrojanni estate now owned by the Illy family of coffee/café fame. According to the Disciplinare di Produzione (Italy’s production laws) Brunello di Montalcino must be 100% Sangiovese grapes grown on the slopes around Montalcino – a Tuscan village 20 miles south of Siena- aged for four plus years- two spent in oak. The wine must be bottled at least four months prior to commercial release. Brunello di Montalcino is known for its brilliant garnet hue. From the first taste it was bright, alive, and I distinctly remember my first audible rating- “wow!”. It has a rich flavor accompanied by aromas of vanilla, exotic spice, toasted nut, and an earthiness that puts it all in balance. The dark cherries, raspberry and black currant notes add to its richness. We drank it un-decanted but as it is still in its youth, decanting would only make it better. Food pairings would definitely include mature cheeses, grilled meats, game, meat stews, risotto, red meat, and charcuterie such as prosciutto and salami. It would finish well with any dark chocolate desert.

July Wine of the Month Part II

I spent an evening in Vienna recently after a business trip to Hungary. I had the opportunity to return to Plachutta, a restaurant well known for quality Austrian meat dishes such a Tafelspitz and Weiner Schnitzel. Having recently had the New Jersey version of Blaufrankisch, I did not need to have my arm twisted when the wine steward recommended the Weingut Wallner Blaufränkisch Reserve. This wine, made exclusively from estate grapes from vines over 20 years old, and grown in heavy clay, slate permeated soils, had the strong, spicy, minerally character that gives Blaufrankisch its reputation. Known generally as a wine needing a few years to reach full potential, the 2007 vintage was just the right aging for my palate. It had a medium ruby color in the glass and a fruity nose- wild cherry, blackberry being most notable, along with a hint of vanilla. The wine was dry with balanced tannins and the flavor had good length. As one would expect, it paired well with my filet as would also be the case with other beef, pork and game meats. Even if you can’t find Weingut Wallner, I recommend trying an Austrian, or even a Jersey Blaufrankisch to broaden your wine experience while nicely complementing the steak you just took off the grill.

July Wine of the Month

USA wine regions are Sonoma and Nappa in CA and the Finger Lakes region of NY, right? Today, good wines are being made in many states outside CA and NY including Virginia, Pennsylvania and New Jersey.YES! New Jersey has developed an interesting wine industry. The Tomasello Winery, founded in Hammonton NJ in 1933, had a reputation for good wines long before the 2014 Wall Street Journal article announced the “wine boom” in the mid-Atlantic. They started growing grapes in 1888 and seized an opportunity when Prohibition ended to make wine. In the 70’s they began growing French and other European varietals. Tomasello has 70 acres of grapes and produces around 65,000 cases per year. The brand is well distributed and offers multiple tasting rooms throughout the state. I first encountered Tomasello at a tasting at Alstede Farms in Chester NJ. One wine that really caught my attention was the 2013 Outer Coastal Plain Blaufrankisch, a grape considered one of the best Hungarian red grape varieties in addition to being the second most planted dark grape variety in Austria. Blaufränkisch translates as "blue Frankish" as the deeply colored red has a spicey character. This wine is full bodied and full of flavor including peppery notes which allow it to pair well with grilled foods and a range of roasted game. If you are of a mind to support local farmers, you won't go wrong buying this wine to accompany your summer grilled favorites

January Wine of the Month

Tuscan wines are much more than just “ a nice chianti”. My most recent discovery, Sondraia 2010 truly is, as Wine Advocate claims, “ a magnificent super Tuscan” from the “rising star estate” of Poggio al Tesoro. Sondraia 2010 is a Bordeaux blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc worthy of its 93 rating. I have enjoyed many Cab Franc wines, and although only 10%, this grape gives this wine an exotic spiciness and full bodied warmth. Sondraia has a silky smoothness that makes it easy to open the second bottle immediately after the first is gone. Poggio al Tesoro, a relative new comer to the Bolgheri region, has reached award status in a short period of time. I enjoyed my Sondraia with delicacies from the sea but it also pairs well with veal, pork, ribs and ossobuco. Good from appetizer through entree, it was particularly complimentary to the cheese plate I enjoyed for desert. A truly beautiful wine

December Wine of the Month

For the holidays, there is nothing like a good red that won’t break your budget. Talamonti's Rosso dei Politici is a ripe, gulp-able wine made from 100% Montepulciano grapes grown in Abruzzi. Talamonti uses this grape for soft flavors, strong color and gentle tannins,. The 2012 and 2013 vintages are widely available in the USA and are best consumed in their youth. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in large old oak barrels, this is a richer wine than is typical for its price. It has the dark color and notes of black cherry with an earthy flavor that makes it a favorite for pasta parties. It is particularly good paired with pasta Bolognese. Available from $8- $12 this flavorful Italian red will become a favorite for your holiday entertaining.

November Wine of the Month

The Farnese winery, based in Abruzzo has vineyards in Campania, Basilicata, Puglia and Sicily.. Their Edizione Cinque Autoctoni (five native grapes) blends 30% Montepulciano, 28% Sangiovese, 30% Primitivo, 7% Negroamaro and 5% Malvasia Nera.. Each variety is matured separately before blending for 13 months in a mix of different oak barrels. The wine is an intense ruby red in the glass offering a pronounced bouquet of dark black cherries and blackberries. The end result is a full-bodied smoothly textured wine. Each sip offers flavors of vanilla and clove for a memorable finish. Despite its youth, this wine is surprisingly well resolved- absolutely no need to decant. From the antipasto through the formaggio e frutta, Edizione Cinque Autoctoni is the perfect compliment to any Italian feast.

October Wine Of The Month

October means fall colors. For wine lovers that spells RED. SLO Down Wines, is a small California winemaker founded by college friends Bo & Brandon. The 2012 vintage of their flagship, Sexual Chocolate, blends syrah and zinfindel to achieve the sensual nose and color of blackberry, black cherry and dark chocolate. This blend drinks with the smoothness of a Merlot but the full bodied flavor of a Shiraz. This wine begs to be swallowed- perhaps a reference to its name.because no sooner will you finish the first bottle, you will be ready for seconds.

June Wine of the Month

Gabbiano's 2011 Chianti Classico Drank a bottle of Gabbiano 2011 Chianti Classico at the Miford Oyster House. This is a good wine to drink now and should continue to be very good over the next few years. Raspberries, tobacco, cedar, and dried flowers waft from the glass. The 2011 is 90% Sangiovese and 10% other grapes (mostly Merlot). This wine is produced according to the traditional Chianti Classico fermentation processes on the skins, in temperature-controlled tanks at a temperature of 28°C. The wine was bottled a year after harvest, after seven months ageing in medium and large capacity French oak casks. The moderate use of the oak and the choice of large casks allows the wine to preserve the most natural characteristics of the Sangiovese grape, bringing the fruitiness, freshness and the level of tannin into harmony. The result is vibrant floral and fruit fragrances of violet and red berries. The palate delivers a juicy red cherry flavor, with white pepper accents which paired very nicely with oysters. In the typical Italian tradition also matches well with grilled beef or pastas topped with dense red sauces.

May Wine of the Month

2010 Emeritus Pinot Noir Emeritus Vineyards in Sonoma's Russian River Valley, produces only Estate grown and bottled Pinot Noir. The 2010 is an easy wine from the first pour. It is a bit darker than the average pinot. As you take in the sensual garnet color, you will encounter a nose of dark fruit, smoke and blueberry which provides the preamble to the well balanced flavors of blueberry, blackberry, raspberry and spice typical of the genre. The smoky nose followed by a blend of oak, cherry, strawberry and earthy spice complimented my lamb chops and left me grabbing the bottle to pour the last drop.

April Wine of the Month

Rust en Vrede, established in 1694, has produced red wines focusing on Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The location is protected from the sea breeze providing the warmer temperatures essential for classic red production. Proprietor Jean Engelbrecht has established Rust en Vrede as one of South Africa’s premium red wine estates, with full-bodied complex wines reflecting the uniqueness of the Stellenbosch terroir I have been to the estate four times, each time enjoying a delicious South African steak with a glass of Shiraz, Cabernet or Estate Blend. The estate is jaw-droppingly beautiful with its stylish Cape Dutch architecture and amazing mountain vistas. Winemaker Coenie Snyman came on board in 2007 and made some key changes that launched the estate to the top of the log. Snyman believed that after 10 years, the vine vigor of a vineyard starts to drop. Estate soils were low in organic matter, so Snyman increased the organic content by mulching. The soil became naturally more aerated allowing root growth to explode by taking up more water and nutrients- both critical during Stellenbosch heat waves. Snyman also toned down the big bold Red flavors by introducing new oak and American oak. The result is a collection of wines that people want to sit, sip and enjoy a meal with. The Syrah/Shiraz is one of my very favorite South African wines. Snyman is very proud of these wines having been quoted as saying "When I started, I had a hunch Syrah was the better varietal here, even though this is historically a Cabernet property”. From my experience, seems Snyman's hunch was correct. The wine features a nose of dark chocolate, jasmine and a spicy white pepper- a spiciness that goes perfectly with medium rare beef or lamb. This wine won’t disappoint you or the person you are trying to impress.

September Wine of the Month

Brandy is not a wine at all but does draw its character from chenin blanc grapes, a copper distilling process and aged oak barrels. I went to Van Ryn's in Stellenbosch for my first Brandy tasting. There is no topping the oak infused fermented spirit when it comes to after dinner by a roaring fire- either in the den or at the Camp.It reigns as an equal to a peaty single malt or a fine sipping tequila. Van Ryn must be ordered on the net as it is not distributed outside South Africa. I recommend the 12 YR old

March Wine of the Month

A trip to Salzburg reacquainted me with Austrian wines, particularly Cabernet Franc, one of the parents of the original Cabernet Sauvignon cultivar and one of the world’s major black grape varieties. I have been pleasantly surprised by the quality of Austrian wines over my many visits to Vienna. Cab Franc is principally grown for blending with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Typically, Cabernet Franc is lighter than Cabernet Sauvignon making a bright, less dark red wine that contributes a peppery nose to blends with more robust grapes. Well known in Austria, Domane Mueller fits the postcard expectation for an Austrian winemaker. Their Cabernet Franc is a great compliment to any gourmet meal from the Vorspeise to the Fruchte und Kase (mit umlauten). Full and round to the taste this Cab Franc had more flavor than a merlot and was drinkable in full gulps. Enjoy!

More Than Just Fishing

Monday, February 10, 2014

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